Helpful Puppy Suggestions

I HAVE BEEN A MEMBER OF THE CANADIAN KENNEL CLUB SINCE 1989.

ISLE OF  IS HOME-BASED WHERE OUR DOGS ARE PART OF OUR FAMILY.  THEY LIVE IN OUR HOME, SLEEP IN OUR BEDROOM AND TRAVEL WITH US.  OUR DOGS ARE HEALTH TESTED WITH WONDERFUL TEMPERAMENTS AND SWEET PERSONALITIES, WHICH IS PASSED DOWN TO THEIR OFFSPRING.  WELL SOCIALIZED WITH DOGS AND CHILDREN.

Food Tips
Cook bits of cooked /boiled chicken,alternated with canned Salmon,or Sardines in water,occasionally ground beef but chicken is best. Veg-green beans, and carrots I stay away from broccoli it’s too gassy.
Tuna is also fine. I believe the Raw food diets are not safe for families, and very inconvenient also can cause parasites. Do “Give a dog a bone” as they say, better than a tooth brush.
Never cook or boil bones they can splinter and can be a hazard,use marrow cow leg bones,
great for crates.
I find that pork can upset a dogs stomach.
Chicken and rice is great when dog has an upset stomach or you happen to run out of dog
food.
To change to another brand of dog food, change slowly or you could have a disaster.
Dog treats sold in stores with artificial colours and ingredients I don’t recommend.
You can give bits of chicken,hot dog,cheese,yogurt,much better for your dogs than
commercial treats.
Also you can bake liver or boil in a pan with a small amount of water, and cut up in small bits refrigerate or freeze for great treats. Digestive biscuits are good. TLC also has fantastic dog biscuit treats! 20pound bag is much more economical than the 5 pound bag, I started with the 5 pound and they loved it so much my next order was a 20 pound bag and it lasted for 6months although we have lots of doggy visitors! all rushing to the pantry for a biscuit.
These are foods that could be harmful to your dog: Grapes, onions, chocolate, cocoa bean shells used in gardens for mulch,very toxic.
Raising Puppy
There are all kinds of training methods,books etc. I love The Dog Whisperer, By Caesar Milan if I can give you good advise that would be “Routine” Stick to a routine!!
You should not take puppy away from your property until the 2nd set of shots usually around 16 wks . See if Parvo is in the area.
Puppies love to play but they also love to sleep, when your pup wants to sleep let him sleep
they really need their sleep to grow. Crates are wonderful, it’s there own little cocoon and makes a puppy feel safe.
Put paper at far end and nice bedding in front of crate near the door with a toy. Basically the
pup will take a few days to adjust from the loss of his/her litter-mates.
Don’t make the mistake of going and picking the puppy up every time they cry in the grate
they will sleep though the night. I know how much you want to run in and save the day but wait five to ten minutes and they will fall asleep.
First thing in the morning let the puppy right out side and give them your duty command, and
than tons of praise!
They love to please you. Some people put the crate in the bedroom I choose to put them close to the door they are going to go out of in the morning for the first while, due to small bladders. Their bladders grow as they do. I always have music on at night when the puppies are being weaned from Mom.
Some times country music , and some times jazz, or classical it is different with every litter.
I do not recommend choker collars on poodles or leaving a collar on all the time.The best collars for training is called The Martin Gale style, it is half choker and half collar it stops at a point to prevent injury, and ads more control with out the choking effect.
Standard poodles are very loyal and love to be around people.They are highly intelligent and will be your best friend.
I would love to hear from you and get any up dates about your new puppy in the form of letters, emails, pictures, phone calls etc. This puppies happiness and yours mean the world to me.
Thank you for purchasing one or more of my puppies.

Vaccines

FACT: your dog’s vaccines can protect for 15 years or more.
Yes,15 years. That means, after the first vaccine, he’s probably protected for life!

Vaccinating over and over doesn’t make him “more immune,” so why are you putting your dog at risk every year?

Over-vaccination is a huge problem, so it pays to know.
Despite what the vet says, your dog probably doesn’t need that annual booster. So, before making an appointment:
Click here to see which vaccines your dog actually needs>>

Dr. Karen Becker Interviews Dr. Schultz

January 2014

We have updated our web page to coincide with the latest information on vaccines for our puppy people. Tragically we are hearing more and more dogs (mutts and purebreds) reacting to vaccines, (or their extenders) and or reacting to being over vaccinated needlessly year after year after year. We have even seen dogs in Veterinary clinics start to froth and the mouth and seizure in the office while waiting to pay their bill !
*IF your puppy acts sickly after a vaccine, really stop and consider the pros and cons of revaccinating (we wouldn’t).

There is a vaccine for leptospirosis, but I personally don’t recommend it.
It is a relatively weak bacterial vaccine that is short acting and can’t protect against all 20 serovar of the Leptospira bacteria. In fact, it is actually ineffective for the current serovar that is causing the majority of infections in my area today.
The leptospirosis vaccine is a bacterin (a vaccine made from killed bacteria), which in and of itself won’t prompt an immune response to make antibodies, so a powerful adjuvant (usually a heavy metal such as aluminum or mercury, aka thimerosal) is added that elicits a strong immune system response. Because of this, it also carries a significantly greater risk for adverse reactions. Information has recently emerged that the vaccine can actually cause the disease in dogs, and it has also been linked to early kidney failure in older animals.
Leptospirosis symptoms are pretty easy for owners to spot and receive treatment for. Most common antibiotics will kill leptospira such as ordinary penicillin, tetracycline and erythromycin all work well. So owners have to consider if the 1/1000 chance (please confirm stats for your area) of their dog catching Lepto, is worth the risk of yearly exposing their dog to life threatening toxins being injected into their dogs, causing lifelong health problems.
Over the years many pet owners and veterinarians have become concerned about the potentially harmful practice of annual re-vaccination. Issues of concern such as dogs developing immune disease, such as but not limited to: Autoimmune Haemolytic Anaemia (AIHA), Cancer and Chronic disease in canines is on the increase. We hope by providing the best and most up to date information that our ‘puppy people’ can make educated choices for the safety and health of their pets and not rely on a Vet. Your pups’ health and future health is in YOUR hands. Don’t blame the breeder, blame the Vet !$$

Dogs do need initial series of vaccines. This is well documented and uncontested. When to vaccinate is the big debate and Dr. Schultz and Dr.Dodds have strong opinions, the world is starting to listen to. What is also known is that no dog needs yearly vaccines.
We have chosen to vaccinate our “breeding” adults twice for for DA2MP. Our adults that cross the border will get Rabies every 3 years as this is the law. As of 2015 we hope this will be every 7 years as per latest manufacturer’s recommendations.
Our Poodles no longer receive any vaccines (including rabies) when they turn 6 years of age.
OUR VACCINATING RULES:
No rabies until 6 months of age !!
No lepto or corona ever
Series of 3 puppy shots, 3 – 4 weeks apart the first year, a booster a year later and then that is it for 3 years.
NO vaccinating for Rabies and booster at the same time.
NO YEARLY VACCINES !!
So many people are over vaccinating and it is really hard on our puppy’s health


Once our mom’s have retired, they no longer receive vaccines, or even Rabies for the duration of their lives. Our Poodles do not receive Flea, Tick or Heartworm medication as we do not believe in subjecting our Poodles to a toxic soup of chemicals and harming them or their pups.

Our vet charges $50.00 for Titres.
BUT, this is my belief and you will have to read current information and make an informed choice for yourself and your Poodle. Your Vet works for you and is a salesperson with products to sell, it is up to you the owner to make informed choices for your pet’s health !!

Vanguard DA2MP
Vaccinates against: Distemper, Adenovirus Type 2 (gives cross immunity to Adenovirus Type 1 Hepatitis), Parainfluenza, (MLV) Parvo
****Our pups go home with one light Parvo distemper vaccine before 8 weeks only because most clients are not comfortable with puppies leaving with out at least one set of shots.
Even though they do have maternal antibody protection, until they would normally receive their first vaccine at or around 9 weeks of age. They will need a series of 2 more vaccinations administered 3 – 4 weeks apart and a rabies at 5 to 6 months of age.

INFORMATION ABOUT VACCINES:

VACCINATION NEWSFLASH – Dr. Ihor Basko

I would like to make you aware that all 27 veterinary schools in North America are in the process of changing their protocols for vaccinating dogs and cats. Some of this information will present an ethical and economic challenge to vets and there will be skeptics. Some organizations have come up with a political compromise suggesting vaccinations every 3 years to appease those who fear loss of income vs those concerned about potential side effects. Politics, traditions, or the doctor’s economic well-being should not be a factor in medical decision.
NEW PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNOLOGY

“Dogs and cats” immune systems mature fully at six months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after six months of age, it produces immunity, which is good for the life of the pet (i.e.: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer is not “boosted” nor are memory cells induced. Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated haemolytic anemia.
There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines. Puppies receive antibodies through their mother’s milk. This natural protection can last 8-14 weeks.  Puppies and kittens should NOT be vaccinated at LESS than eight weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced.
Vaccination at six weeks will, however, delay the timing of the first highly effective vaccine.  Vaccinations given two weeks apart suppress rather than stimulate the immune system.  A series of vaccinations is recommended given starting at eight-nine weeks and given three to four weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age.  Another vaccination given sometime after six months of age (but usually at one year of age) will provide lifetime immunity.
Most Leptospirosis strains (there are about 200) do not cause the Leptospirosis disease, and of the seven clinically important strains only four ~ L. icterohaemorrhagiae, L. canicola, L. grippotyphosa, and L. pomona serovars ~ are found in today’s vaccines. So, exposure risk, depends upon which serovars of Lepto have been documented to cause clinical leptospirosis in the area where you live. You can call the county health department or local animal control and ask.
Over the years many pet owners and veterinarians have become concerned about the potentially harmful practice of annual re-vaccination. As immune disease such as but not limited to: Autoimmune Haemolytic Anaemia (AIHA), Cancer and Chronic Disease in canines increase. As a result of these facts, new studies on the duration of immunity are being done.
CANINE VACCINATION PROTOCOL – 2007 – MINIMAL VACCINE USE
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
938 Stanford Street
Santa Monica, CA 90403
310-828-4804; Fax 310-828-8251
e-mail: hemopet@hotmail.com
Note: The following vaccine protocol is offered for those dogs where minimal vaccinations are advisable or desirable. The schedule is one most breeders will recommend and should not interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It’s a matter of professional judgment and choice. Puppy’s are growing and developing and it is NOT advisable to bombard their systems with multiple vaccines, heart worm medications, topical toxins and expect the puppy to not have long term adverse effects such as AIHA, Cancer and or GI upsets. BE INFORMED
Age of Pups & Vaccine Type
9 – 10 weeks : Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy DPV)
14 weeks: Same as above
16 -18 weeks (optional): Same as above (optional)
20 weeks or older: Rabies
1 year: Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV
1 year:  Rabies, killed 3-year product (give 3-4 weeks apart from distemper/parvovirus booster)
Perform vaccine antibody titers for distemper and parvovirus every three years thereafter, if not giving yearly vaccines or more often, if desired. Vaccinate for rabies virus according to the law and of course manufacturers directions. You will want to get the vaccination renewal date on the Rabies certificate to indicate 3 years as per manufacturer’s directions.
Dog Vaccinations Be Informed

DHLPPC:
This is a combo vaccination that covers numerous diseases with one injection. What do all those letters stand for?
D = Distemper:
Distemper is a nasty virus that is highly contagious, occurs world wide, and at one time was the leading cause of death in puppies. Young puppies are more susceptible to the virus then adult dogs. You may see signs of an upper respiratory infection with a high fever, the dog may also have neurological signs. This disease is often fatal.
H = Hepatitis or Adenovirus-2:
This is spread by contact with the urine and feces of infected animals. The virus causes liver and kidney damage, animals that survive may have chronic illness. Symptoms include but are not limited to: fever, lethargy, anorexia, abdominal pain, and bloody diarrhea.
L = Leptospirosis:
This disease affects the liver and kidneys and is deadly. Animals with this disease are contagious to other animals and humans. A positive dog should be isolated and the caregiver should wear protective clothing and gloves. The disease is spread through contact with urine of infected animals. Dogs with leptospirosis may show signs of lethargy, dehydration, jaundice, and fever.
P = Parainfluenza:
This is a virus that causes an upper respiratory infection. Dogs usually contract the disease through contact with nasal secretions of infected dogs.
P = Parvovirus:
This virus attacks the intestinal tract and causes severe vomiting and diarrhea. Parvo is highly contagious, dogs contract the virus through contact with an infected animals stools. Without treatment dogs become dehydrated and weak and often die. This virus is very common and puppies who are not properly vaccinated are often afflicted. Rottweilers and Doberman Pinschers seem to be at greater risk for parvo.
C = Corona virus:
This virus attacks the intestinal system similar to parvovirus. Infected dogs suffer from vomiting and diarrhea and dehydration. Keep your pet vaccinated and your yard clean to protect your pet.
L = lyme Disease:
Some of the symptoms and pathological changes associated with Lyme disease are very similar to those found in autoimmune disease. a small portion of infected dogs do develop sore, painful joints weeks or months after infection. Some of these dogs run low-grade fevers. The signs you read about in humans with Lyme almost never occur in pets.
Simple arthritis is usually constant in the joints it affects. But lameness due to Lyme disease often shifts from leg to leg. These swollen joints are usually hot and painful and occasionally the lymph nodes at the base of the legs may be slightly enlarged as well.
The front leg are most commonly affected. When they are, it is the lymph node on the shoulder of that leg that may be enlarged. Many of the sick dogs are depressed. They may yelp when these joints are pressed and be quite reluctant to walk. When they do walk, they walk with a stiff shuffling gait and an arched back because of the pain.
Prevention is key Flea and Tick prevention options and if your dog is exposed to ticks then perhaps yearly testing might also be an option for you to consider.
VIDEO INTERVIEWS WITH VETS ABOUT VACCINATIONS
W. Jean Dodds, DVM
HEMOPET
938 Stanford Street
Santa Monica, CA 90403
310-828-4804; Fax 310-828-8251
e-mail: hemopet@hotmail.com
Dr. Schultz interviewed on Rabies Vaccination
Rabies Vaccines 1 year or 3 year
Dr. Schultz interviewed on Vaccinations and Titres
While researching the Standard Poodle and other dog breeds readers will undoubtedly come across information on breeders web sites about vaccination protocols for their puppies. Most breeders are advocating “limited” vaccination, some have gone to no vaccines what so ever, some are doing titres to test the need for revaccination some are dividing up vaccinations and few are still doing what they did 20 years ago. Unanimously breeders all agree Rabies if given, should be given 2-3 weeks apart from regular vaccinations.
This is because vaccines can cause changes in the immune system of dogs that might lead to life-threatening immune-mediated diseases. The breeders who are advocating limited vaccines are not unique in their stance on vaccines.
Breeders of other breeds, Weimaraner, Vizsla, Labs and Toy breeds, etc.. are also advocating limited vaccine as are Vets, breeders and owners become aware that vaccination protocols are no longer considered a “one size fits all” program.
Breeder’s have to view Vaccines and how they will effect their precious puppies, short and long term. Some Breeders are even including vaccine protocols, in their purchase contracts to protect their pups from Vets who are so routed in routine and income that they don’t have the pup’s best interest at heart.
Limited vaccination can be interpreted many different ways but what you feel comfortable with as a breeder and as an owner is paramount. There are many, many sites on the internet both pro-vaccine and anti-vaccine. So sort through the information carefully. Many people believe “WRONGLY” that legally their dog is required to have annual rabies vaccination. In Ontario the law states : a dog 3 months of age or over must be immunized against rabies, and then reimmunized (i.e. given a booster) by the date specified in the immunization certificate that is issued at the time the vaccine is administered.
Basically the dog must be re-immunized when the Vet states on the certificate so make sure your Vet writes down next rabies due in 3 years time. This information is available online on the Health Protection and Promotion Act and R.R.O. 1990, REGULATION 567
Vaccinosis is a disease syndrome that is triggered by vaccination. Vaccinosis is becoming rampant in the dog population. Examples of vaccinosis include autoimmune diseases, irritable bowel disorders, lupus and pemphigus; hypothyroidism in dogs; eosinophilic skin disorders, hyperthyroidism asthma, chronic skin disease or allergic dermatitis in dogs. Many times people assume a dog has a food allergy when in fact they are reacting to Vaccines.
These diseases are identified as vaccine-related conditions for two reasons:
1. The onset of the symptoms is associated with the date of vaccination in many cases. Usually, two weeks to one month following a vaccination,
symptoms such as skin problems, malaise, muscle weakness, diarrhea or asthma.
2. Patients seem respond and get better when treated for Vaccinosis.
Homeopathic remedies are often effective on vaccine-related problems. Some of the more common vaccinosis remedies used are thuja occidentalis, silicea, sulphur, malandrinum, mezureum and lyssin.
Lepto and Corona Vaccines were said to be the vaccines to be cautious of, because they caused the most sever reactions, including seizures. Manufacturers assured the medical community that the “extender” used in the vaccines was changed and the extender would not cause allergic reactions. As a result of this change, Vets felt reassured by administering these new improved vaccines however the adverse reactions are still happening. Read about Vaccinosis symptoms
Dr. Ron Schultz, Dr. Richard Ford, and many other veterinarians have stated they don’t recommend the Lepto vaccines. The reactivity associated with Lepto vaccine can make a patient very itchy for three to four years and most agree, the vaccine is incapable of protecting a dog against Leptospira and worse yet, if the dog were to develop a Leptospira infection to one of the serovars transmissible to man, the owner would be at greater risk of suffering a Leptospira infection because his/her dog was vaccinated !
Dr. Ron Schultz only recommends vaccination one time at 15 weeks of age for dogs and to only distemper, adenovirus and parvovirus. It is proven that IgE hypersensitivity results and the animals can suffer much greater allergies as a result of being vaccinated. Not only this, the thyroid is suppressed as a result of vaccinations for at least 45 days following vaccination.
Other examples of vaccinosis cases are seen after receiving the Rabies Vaccination. Symptoms are aggressive or fearful behavior problems, reverse sneezing and or seizure activity. Since some communities by law require a Rabies vaccine (make sure your Vet writes that the next shot is in 3 years !!) It is reccomended by some homepath Vets that by administering a dose of 30C lyssin (a homeopathic remedy) seems to decrease the long-term side-effects of vaccination, if given at the time of the Rabies vaccination.
Lepto is also said to be on the rise, so it is important to consult with your vet to weigh the pro’s and con’s of vaccinations. IF you are vaccinating, make sure to book your appointment first thing in the morning and ALWAYS Monday to Thursday so that if your pet does have an immediate allergic reaction, your clinic will still be open to handle the emergency.
Dr. W. Jean Dodds DVM takes a more balanced approach with breeds that require reduced or limited vaccines. As science progresses and studies are conducted, change is inevitable. Please read Dr. Dodds Changing Vaccine Protocols (below). Your vet may tell you “this is the way it is always been done OR in 50 years of practice I’ve never seen a reaction OR we always give rabies and a combination shot at the same time OR other Poodles I see have never had a reaction, etc…” However if your Veterinarian is like mine, they will know and/or will listen to you as informed owner of a poodle, that some dogs may have a reaction to vaccines and advocate caution when vaccinating. Why this is can probably be as a result of environmental toxins already comprimising our dogs, or vaccination extenders used in the vaccines.
We owe it to our dogs to educate ourselves about what is happening within our breed, to investigate, question and question again and than make our own informed decisions as to how “limited” we wish to be when it comes to vaccinating our dogs.
~ Bijou Poodles will continually educate ourselves and update this site, as current information and options become available to us ~
Bijou Poodle Puppy People will follow these Precautions and agree;
TO NEVER VACCINATE THEIR PUPPY WITH A RABIES VACCINE IN COMBINATION WITH ANY OTHER VACCINE.
TO NEVER VACCINATE THEIR PUPPY WITH A RABIES VACCINE WITHIN ONE MONTH OF ANY OTHER VACCINE.
TO NEVER VACCINATE FOR RABIES OR WITH ANY OTHER VACCINE WITHIN A MONTH OF THE PUPPY HAVING ANY KIND OF SURGICAL PROCEDURE, OR IF THERE IS EVEN THE SLIGHTEST QUESTION THAT THE PUPPY MAY BE ILL.
Bijou Poodle Puppy People are aware that some dogs may have adverse reactions, including death, from some Heartworm and Lyme Disease medications.
They are also aware that Heartworm and Lyme Disease medication is to be administered in accordance with veterinary guidelines only in areas of the world where these diseases are considered a serious threat to the well being of the Puppy.  With that in mind, both diseases if untreated are known to be a death sentence to affected dogs. Puppy owners must make the best and healthiest choices for their puppy.
Immunological Effects of Vaccines

In the 1980’s we were vaccinating our puppies at 6 weeks of age and every 2 weeks of age until 16 weeks of age. The buyer would then vaccinate at 16 weeks of age for the rabies. My Vet informed me that I was “over vaccinating”. I was amazed that there could be such a thing as overdoing a good thing. I was wrong. The stress I was putting on my little ones was huge. Not only that but totally not needed. Then I found out more about the Rabies Vaccination. What I found out after reading the manufacturer label was it is a 3-year protection, meaning it is not to be given more than once every three years after initial 2 doses !
Here my pups were routinely vaccinated every year, plus given a booster and then don’t forget that heart worm medication and flea medication. Wow that is really getting the poor puppy’s body to work overtime especially during key growing periods !
Due to recent studies and also health related problems from Vaccinosis (seizures to name one) especially in Weimaraners, we ask that our puppy buyers..or anyone concerned about their puppies health, to really research vaccination options, prior to following any vaccination protocol. Remember the Vet you choose, is working “FOR” you. You are “their” employer. You have the ability to choose what is best for your puppy and to find a vet that will work with you, even if it means less income for the vet.
NEW PRINCIPLES OF IMMUNOLOGY
“Dogs immune systems mature fully at 6 months. If a modified live virus vaccine is given after 6 months of age, it produces an immunity which is good for the life of the pet (ie: canine distemper, parvo, feline distemper). If another MLV vaccine is given a year later, the antibodies from the first vaccine neutralize the antigens of the second vaccine and there is little or no effect. The titer (measurement for amount of antibodies) is not “boosted” nor are more memory cells induced.
“Not only are annual boosters for parvo and distemper unnecessary, they subject the pet to potential risks of allergic reactions and immune-mediated hemolytic anemia.”
“There is no scientific documentation to back up label claims for annual administration of MLV vaccines”
Puppies receive antibodies through their mothers milk. This natural protection can last 8-14 weeks. Maternal immunity will neutralize the vaccine and little protection (0-38%) will be produced if vaccinated before 7 weeks of age. Vaccination at 6 weeks will, however, delay the timing of the first highly effective vaccine. Vaccinations given 2 weeks apart suppress rather than stimulate the immune system. A series of vaccinations is given starting at 7-8 weeks and given 3-4 weeks apart up to 16 weeks of age. Another vaccination given sometime after 6 months of age (usually at 1 year 4 mo) will provide lifetime immunity.
New Idea is a 3 year protection:

Phizer Defensor 1 (one year protection) and Defensor 3 (3 year protection)
Rabies :
Rabies is a virus that affects the nervous system and is always fatal. There is no known cure for rabies, to confirm a case the brain tissue must be examined. In the United States raccoons, skunks, bats, foxes, and coyotes are the main wild animal hosts for the illness. Symptoms generally include behavior change, difficulty swallowing, hypersalivation, depression – stupor, and hind limp paralysis. The disease is spread through the saliva of infected animals and can be transmitted through a bite or an open wound. Vaccinated pets who are exposed to rabies should be re-vaccinated and observed for 90 days, un vaccinated pets exposed to rabies should be euthanized or kept isolated for 6 months. Keep all pets current on their rabies vaccinations – this will protect humans and animals.
The latest Rabies vaccination protocol is that after a series of two vaccinations the dog will only need to be revaccinated every 3 years depending on the Rabies Brand of Vaccination. Ask your vet if you can read the label if you are unsure.
Ontario Canada has had a confirmed case of Rabies (via bite from an infected skunk to border collie pups) in January 2008. A rabies vaccination is a must for crossing the border. You need proof that your dog was vaccinated against rabies by a licensed veterinarian. A signed, dated certificate must show the vaccine was given at least 30 days prior to entering the U.S. The certificate must also list you as the owner and contain a clear, detailed description of the dog, outlining his colour, breed, sex, age and specific markings.
As well, information on the brand of rabies vaccine, the vaccine lot number, and the expiry date of the vaccine must be written on the certificate. In adult dogs, rabies vaccinations are valid for either one or three years. If an expiry date is not indicated on the certificate, the vaccination is assumed to be valid for one year after administration so make sure your Vet indicates the next booster is not due for 3 years !
Puppies younger than three months old when crossing the border do not need to be vaccinated against rabies. If you are travelling with a young puppy that’s large or looks mature, you should carry proof of its age when entering the U.S. A health certificate or vaccine certificate (not rabies) that is dated and includes the pups age should be adequate for this purpose.
Bordetella:
This is an upper respiratory infection also known as kennel cough. This infection is usually not fatal but is a pain to get rid of. In an otherwise healthy dog will clear up all on it’s own just like the human cold and just like the human flu virus there are strains of bordetella. The infection can spread quickly through boarding and grooming facilities and any place dogs congregate. The vaccination can be in the form of a nasal spray or injection. We think it makes most sense to give it intranasally at the point of exposure. The injection form will need a booster in one month. Your veterinarian can help you decide if this vaccination is necessary for your dog. If you are bording your dog they usually do require this vaccination.
Lyme Disease:
This is a tick borne illness. If you live in a wooded area and have a large number of positive Lyme disease cases in your area you may wish to consult with your Vet about this vaccination. The deer tick must stay attached to your dog for one to two days in order to transmit the illness, so checking your dog daily for ticks will help prevent Lyme disease as well as using a good tick preventative Advantix or Revolution.
Symptoms include but are not limited to: fever, swollen lymph nodes, and loss of appetite. Talk to your veterinarian if you think your dog should be vaccinated against Lyme disease with the Lymevax vaccine. Great web page about Lyme Disease
More Information about Flea and Tick Medication Options
Giardiasis
Giardiasis is a parasite that lives in the intestines and can be passed into the environment through the stools of infected animals (Rabbits, Mice, and other dog’s feces).  Dogs become infected with giardia by drinking contaminated water. Humans can also be infected.  At risk dogs would be those who live primarily outdoors, hunting dogs, or dogs who may come in contact with ponds or creeks.
If you feel your pet has Giardia, then talk to your veterinarian about vaccinating for giardia. This vaccine needs boosted 3 weeks after the initial dose then given annually. Giardiavax is not a “prevention” but is used to help clear up Giardia in an infected dog
Giardia causes its unpleasant effects on the body not by invading the tissues, but simply by being in the way.  It multiplies to the point where it sort of paves the lining of the intestine and blocks normal digestion (malabsorption). This causes only partially digested food to get lower in the digestive tract than it should, causing diarrhea. Tests for Giardiasis are useless because it can’t always be detected. It is better just to treat for Giardiasis if you suspect it. Safe-Guard® Canine Dewormer (contains 22.2% Fenbendazole) used for 3 days will take care of Giardiasis.
Coccidiosis
Coccidiosis is an intestinal disease that affects several different animal species including canines and humans. Coccidia is one of the most prevalent protozoal infections in North American animals, second only to giardia. Clinical signs of coccidiosis usually are present or shortly following stress such as weather changes; weaning; overcrowding; long automobile or plane rides;  relocation to a new home and new owners; and/or unsanitary conditions. Symptoms or signs of coccidiosis will depend on the state of the disease at the time of observation. In general, coccidiosis affects the intestinal tract and symptoms are associated with it. In mild cases, only a watery diarrhea may be present, and if blood is present in the feces, it is only in small amounts.
Severely affected animals may have a thin, watery feces with considerable amounts of intestinal mucosa and blood. Straining usually is evident, rapid dehydration, weight loss and anorexia (off feed) also may be clinically visible.
DEWORMERS:
Safe-Guard
The active ingredient in Safe-Guard®, fenbendazole, (Panacur) has been shown, in controlled laboratory studies and clinical field trials, to have outstanding efficacy against the major intestinal worms that infect dogs, namely:
Tapeworms ( Taenia pisiformis )
Roundworms ( Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina )
Hookworms ( Ancylostoma caninum, Uncinaria stenocephala )
Whipworms ( Trichuris vulpis )
Strongid T (more information here is a medication used to treat and control parasites such as:
Hookworms
Roundworms
Pinworms
The medicine contains the active ingredient pyrantel pamoate (Nemex®) Must be administered two days in a row and repeated in 10 days.
Blue-Green Algae:
Blue-Green Algae kills dogs that drink or contact the algae (Cyanobacteria). It is found in stagnant water and there is no cure. Symptoms of Blue Green Algae Toxicity include: nausea, bloody diarrhea, pale gums, skin or eye irritations, convulsions and, in severe cases, even death within minutes. When the nervous system is involved, dogs will develop muscle tremors,  labored breathing and difficulty moving. Blue Green Algae toxicity is often misdiagnosed as heart problems or heat stroke. There are lots of photos and videos online so make sure to learn about this deadly toxin.
Campylobacter:
Campylobacter is a form of food poison. It can be passed from people to dogs and then back to people again. It is also referred to as “Show Crud” as it is very common in show dogs. Symptoms are Diarrhea cause can be contaminated Fecal matter, non-chlorinated water, such as streams, ponds or puddles, food poisoning from food or from a human who has food poison, even a light case.  Drugs for treatment are Tetracycline, Erythromycin and some have had success using Cephalexin.
 

Dr. Becker

Sebaceous Adenitis Genetic Disease Control (GDC) evaluation
Sebaceous Adenitis (SA) is an autoimmune skin disorder. The incidence of SA in Standard Poodles appears low at this point but increasing in frequency over time. The sebaceous (oil) glands, located within the dog’s skin, both lubricate and protect the skin. With SA, the body’s sebaceous glands become inflamed and are eventually destroyed. When the sebaceous glands are no longer functioning, the dog will exhibit a variety of symptoms, including loss of hair, thickening of the skin, scaly skin, secondary skin infections, and frequently a musty odor.
Sebaceous Adenitis is not an uncommon skin disorder; and while no cure exists, there are treatments and procedures that control it and not only keep the affected animal comfortable but also may allow regeneration of the sebaceous glands.
SA can also occur in a subclinical form. The dog appears to be normal and the inflammation of the sebaceous glands is so subtle that it may only be detectable by biopsy analysis.
SA diagnosis is a relatively simple yet invasive process. Three skin punch biopsies are taken under local anesthetic, with the removal site requiring sutures for closure. The biopsied skin sample is then sent to a dermatopathologist for analysis.
Researchers suspect that both SA and Addison’s Disease are complex genetic traits with incomplete heritability – i.e., scientists have yet to determine the method of transmission, and it is thought that there may need to be an environmental “trigger” in order for the disease to be expressed.
Thyroid Test (for Hypothyroidism)
Hypothyroidism results from the impaired production and secretion of thyroid hormone. This deficiency can cause a host of problems in dogs including hair loss, absence of heat cycles and abortions in breeding females, weight gain, intolerance to cold, a slow heart rate, lethargy, and a variety of nonspecific symptoms.
In order to perform a thyroid test, your veterinarian must draw a blood sample. This is placed in a special glass tube and allowed to clot, then it is placed in a centrifuge. The centrifuge divides it into into two parts – serum and clotted blood – then the serum is removed and submitted to a laboratory for analysis. Some veterinary hospitals are able to perform thyroid tests in their clinic, although most rely on outside laboratories.
The good news about hypothyroidism is that it is easily treated with a daily dose of synthetic thyroid hormone called thyroxine (levothyroxine).
DNA Tests for Heritable Diseases
DNA tests have been developed for the following diseases that may affect the Standard Poodle. Each test involves ordering a test kit from OFA that is specific to one disease. The owner/breeder swabs both of the subject dog’s cheeks to collect epithelial cells, then returns the swabs to the OFA for evaluation.
Degenerative Myelopathy (DM)
Degenerative Myelopathy is a progressive disease of the spinal cord in older dogs. The disease has an insidious onset, typically between 8 and 14 years of age. It begins with a loss of coordination in the hind limbs. The affected dog will wobble when walking, knuckle over, or drag its feet. This can first occur in one hind limb and then affect the other. As the disease progresses, the limbs become weak, the dog begins to buckle, and he eventually has difficulty standing. The weakness gets progressively worse until the dog is unable to walk. The clinical course can range from 6 months to a year before dogs become paraplegic. If signs progress for a longer period of time, loss of urinary and fecal continence may occur; eventually, weakness will develop in the front limbs. The one bright spot is that DM is not painful for those afflicted.
A DNA test, available through OFA, identifies dogs that are clear, those who are carriers, and those who are at higher risk for developing DM. Unfortunately, this test only identifies the presence or absence of a gene that has appeared with high frequency among dogs that show DM symptoms; however, many dogs identified as having 2 copies of the DM gene (A/A) have never shown symptoms, leading to the conclusion that there are other factors necessary for the disease to arise. Whether these factors are hereditary, environmental, or a combination of both is yet to be determined. What is known is that 1) All clinically-confirmed dogs with DM – from all breeds, including crossbreeds – have two copies of the defective gene. 2) Other factors must also be present to cause a dog with two copies of the defective gene to be clinically affected. 3) Dogs who test as carriers or non-affected have never been clinically diagnosed with DM and are highly unlikely to develop the disease.
Neonatal Encephalopathy (NE)
NE results in fatal developmental brain disease and has been found in an extensive family of Standard Poodles. The disease is inherited as an autosomal recessive trait, and most affected puppies die shortly after birth. With intensive nursing care, affected pups can be kept alive for a few weeks; however, none has survived past the fifth week.
The DNA test for Neonatal Encephalopathy (NE) was negative for the Sire and Dam of each of our poodles; thus, our poodles are clear by parentage and none can develop or pass along the disease to offspring.
von Willebrands Disease(vWD)
The most common inherited bleeding disorder in dogs, vWD is inherited as an autosomal dominant gene with variable expression. That is, the severity of the bleeding is related to the degree to which the gene is expressed. The bleeding is caused by a deficiency of a plasma protein called the von Willebrand factor, which is critical for normal platelet function in the early stages of clotting. In most cases, the bleeding in vWD is mild or inapparent, and lessens with age. Severe problems include prolonged nose bleeds, bleeding beneath the skin and into the muscles, and blood in the stool and urine.
The DNA test for von Willebrands Disease (vWD) was negative for the Sire and Dam of each of our poodles; thus, none of our dogs is a carrier, and none can develop or pass along the disease to offspring.
DNA Test for Coat Color
Testing for coat color and a D-locus test for color dilution have recently become available and our poodles’ tests all show the DD allele. The coat color test allows breeders to fairly accurately predict the colors of puppies that will be produced with each breeding. As for the D-locus test for fading, it was originally held that if both parents carried the DD allele their pups would not fade. Unfortunately, even in those with DD alleles, it appears that there are other genes at work particularly in red or apricot poodles that causes most to fade. Until these elusive genes are identified, the D-locus test in red poodles is unable to predict whether or not your puppy’s coat will fade. Therefore, when a breeder states that his/her red poodles are non-fading, this information should be viewed as opinion rather than fact!


Dr. Dodds is an internationally recognized authority on thyroid issues in dogs and blood diseases in animals. In the mid-1980’s she founded Hemopet, the first nonprofit blood bank for animals. Dr. Dodds is a grantee of the National Heart, Lung, and Blood Institute, and author of over 150 research publications. Through Hemopet she provides canine blood components and blood-bank supplies throughout North America, consults in clinical pathology, and lectures worldwide.
The following vaccine protocol is offered for those dogs where minimal vaccinations are advisable or desirable. We believe this especially holds true for the standard poodle breed. Our concern is the number of life-threatening and/or life-altering conditions with a direct link to the immune system that are often found in standard poodles. Over-vaccination, like overmedication of any sort, is an assault on the immune system and clearly has a deleterious effect on some animals. Unfortunately, research has not yet devised a way to determine which animals will be affected. This is the reason we strongly advocate titering, as opposed to yearly vaccinations as a matter of course.
Perform vaccine antibody titers for distemper and parvovirus every three years thereafter, or more often, if desired. Vaccinate for rabies virus (we strongly recommend mercury-free IMRAB 3 TF) according to the law, except where circumstances indicate that a written waiver (not yet accepted in Texas) needs to be obtained from the primary care veterinarian. In that case, a rabies antibody titer can also be performed to accompany the waiver request. Click on the arrow (below right) to read about the Rabies Challenge Fund. “Research shows that once an animal’s titer stabilizes, it is likely to remain constant for many years.” —-Veterinary Medicine, February, 2002 To read more on the subject: Canine Vaccination Protocol – 2011.
Testing, Genetics, Genetic Diversity
Genetic diversity is a major factor in producing puppies with healthy immune systems. Through the years of inbreeding and line breeding in a quest for perfection, the Standard Poodle breed’s genetic diversity was compromised and their immune systems suffered. Although there is testing for many known genetic diseases and we’re able to breed away from them, immune-suppressed, immune-mediated, and auto-immune disorders have grown exponentially. For these, we have no tests, as they are often initiated by an environmental “trigger.” In his study of Sebaceous Adenitis in Standard Poodles, Dr. Niels Pedersen of UCDavis in California was unable to find a discernible difference in dogs with SA and dogs without, leading him to suspect the disease could be fixed in the breed. Several studies have determined that even though a breeder may choose mates with low COI, low Wycliffe, and low Old English Apricot, that still does not always guarantee genetic diversity. There was great concern that the Standard Poodle’s gene pool had become limited, placing the future of the breed in peril. So in 2014, Dr. Pedersen and the Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory (VGL) agreed to identify the DNA and DLA in 100 Standard Poodles – if enough people would volunteer to send in cheek swabs – in an effort to discover which dogs were actually genetically diverse. The response was overwhelming, and the results were exciting and encouraging. Though the diverse genetics are far from prevalent, diversity does still exist in the breed, and the dogs who participated in the study – ours were among them – are now listed in a database that can produce a list of potential mates who, when bred, have the potential to produce puppies with greater diversity than either sire or dam. This is far from the only breeding tool we use – of course temperament, health history of the lines, structure, and other factors must be considered. From the list generated for our Kimber, I was able to find several suitable mates with lovely temperament, excellent structure, clean pedigrees, and who carried the genes for apricot and red. The puppies from her breeding with Julie Reed’s Allegro are the first, or among the first, between two VGL-registered poodles.
Each breed has its own particular set of common inheritable diseases. We complete all available testing for those diseases inherent to the Standard Poodle. As these tests are completed, each dog is registered with the OFA and CHIC. You may use a dog’s OFA or CHIC number to verify test results online at the OFA’s website.
CERF Evaluation and Registry
The Canine Eye Registration Foundation (CERF) was formed by breeders who were concerned about heritable eye diseases. The foundation worked with veterinary ophthalmologists to devise a yearly evaluation of breeding dogs, known as a CERF exam. The phenotypic appearance of each eye is evaluated during the exam, though this does not imply that an ocular disorder will not subsequently develop. Therefore, dogs with phenotypically healthy eyes are cleared for one year of breeding, but there is no genotypic clearance. Breeding dogs may show phenotypic characteristics of an ocular disorder during a future CERF exam. A dog is CERF registered once it has been examined by an American College of Veterinary Ophthalmology Diplomate and found to be unaffected by any major heritable eye disease, including (but not limited to) progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), corneal dystrophy, retinal dysplasia. This certification is only valid for one year, after which the dog must be re-examined every successive year thereafter.
The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) has established their own eye evaluations in recent years, so these days our exams are done through them.
Hip X-rays for susceptibility to Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD) and Osteoarthritis
There are currently two methods for screening canine hips for dysplasia and susceptibility to osteoarthritis: PennHip and OFA. Both require sedation and X-rays; the difference between the two is procedural, i.e., the types of X-rays required. We use both procedures for our dogs. However, our position is that unless, or until, a genetic link is discovered, either evaluation is subjective at best.
Explanation of Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD)
The acetabulum is the cup-shaped socket of the hipbone, or pelvis. In a dysplastic hip, the acetabulum is shallow or poorly developed, so the head of the femur fits loosely into it. Joint instability occurs as muscle development lags behind the rate of skeletal growth. As the stress of weight-bearing exceeds the strength limits of the supporting connective tissue and muscle, the joint becomes loose and unstable. This allows for free play of the femoral head in the acetabulum, thus promoting abnormal wear and tear. While it is considered to be genetic, being overweight supports the genetic potential for hip dysplasia and other skeletal diseases. Inadequate diet and/or inappropriate exercise during the period of rapid bone growth (generally up to 18-24 months of age) can also bring on the symptoms of hip dysplasia. Young dogs (up to 15-18months) should receive regular exercise such as daily walks and romps. They should not be encouraged to jump up or down from heights or participate in sports such as agility, dock diving, long retrieving sessions, etc. until their bones and muscles have a chance to mature.
8 natural remedies for epilepsy
If you’ve ever witnessed a seizure in your dog, you know how terrifying it can be.
There can be a variety of causes for your dog’s seizure … and a variety of treatments that carry varying degrees of success.
Identifying The Cause Of Your Dog’s Seizure
There are many different causes of seizures. Below is a comprehensive list and recommendations for prevention from Dr Karen Becker:
Head trauma which results in brain swelling can cause seizures.
Brain tumors are a very common source of seizures in older pets. It’s very unlikely your 12-year-old dog or cat will develop epilepsy. If you have a pet getting up in years who starts seizing, unfortunately, the likely cause is a brain tumor.
Bacterial, viral, fungal and parasitic infections can also cause seizures.
Certain immune-mediated diseases can cause seizures.
Cervical subluxations and other chiropractic issues in the neck can increase the likelihood of seizures.
Congenital malformation (birth defects) of the brain stem or spinal cord is also a common cause of seizures. The Cavalier King Charles Spaniel is a breed well-known to have a birth defect in the occipital bone leading to cerebellar herniation, a condition known as Syringomyelia.
Liver disease can indirectly cause seizures. The liver is designed to process toxins, and if it can’t do its job effectively, poisons can build up in your pet’s bloodstream and cross the blood-brain barrier. Your pet can develop a condition called hepatic encephalopathy which can lead to toxin-based seizure activity.
Low blood sugar can also be a cause. Diabetic animals taking insulin can develop low blood sugar-based seizures, or animals with insulinomas (a pancreatic tumor)
Other metabolic conditions such as hypothyroidism can also cause seizures. Interestingly, in one study 70 percent of dogs that were clinically hypothyroid had a history of seizures.
Poisoning can lead to seizures. Lead poisoning, mercury poisoning, and plant poisoning (the marijuana plant, sago palm and castor bean plant, for example) can all induce seizures in your pet. Fertilizers, pesticides, insecticides and herbicides are all well-known to cause seizures.
Human drugs like NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs), antihistamines, antidepressants and diabetic medications can all cause seizures in pets.
Veterinary drugs are also known to create seizure potential. In fact, neurotoxic topical chemicals like flea and tick preventives are included in the list of drugs that potentially cause seizures.
Heat stroke is also a too-frequent cause of seizures in pets. Veterinary vaccines still contain thimerosal or organo-mercury compounds as adjuvants to boost the body’s response to the immunization. Needless to say, heavy metals cross the blood-brain barrier, and since your pet’s central nervous system doesn’t contain the equivalent of a liver, there’s no removing those heavy metals.
Diet has a two-fold potential implication when it comes to seizures. Number one is if your pet has food allergies. This can cause a systemic inflammatory response that can decrease her seizure threshold. Number two, the pet food you feed can contain synthetic chemicals, preservatives, emulsifiers or other ingredients that can cause systemic inflammation and decrease seizure threshold.
While there are many causes of seizures in dogs, it’s clear from the above list that a more natural lifestyle with fresh whole foods, a very minimal vaccine schedule and limited exposure to toxins and drugs is the best way to prevent seizures.
But what if your dog is already suffering seizures?
Fortunately, there are natural remedies that are not only safe, but more effective than conventional medications!
Conventional Treatment of Seizures
Conventional vets will often treat seizures and epilepsy with anticonvulsant drugs such as phenobarbitone or Mysoline. The long term use of these drugs will contribute to the toxic buildup that can cause further seizures.
Natural Treatment Options For Your Dog’s Seizures
Homeopathic treatment can be can be ver effective for reducing the frequency and severity of seizures in dogs.
A study done in 2007 tested a single remedy, Belladonna 200C, in ten dogs with idiopathic (no known cause) epilepsy. During the seizure phase, 3 to 4 drops of Belladonna were given at 15 minute intervals, until the researchers saw a considerable reduction in seizure activity; then it was given four times daily.
Dogs with head shaking syndrome as well as seizures were also given 3 to 4 drops of Cocculus 6C weekly for an additional three months.
In this study, the numbers of fits reduced to just two or three during the first two weeks of the study, and then became occasional in next two weeks.
With the continuation of Belladonna, no fits were observed during the two to seven months of follow-up. In two cases, epileptic fits reappeared within 15 to 25 days after stopping the homeopathic treatment. When the Belladonna was resumed, the seizures were again controlled.
This success was seen with just one or two remedies. There are also other homeopathic remedies that can help reduce seizure activity in your dog. These include:
Aconite
Useful for both attendant and patient! The sudden onset fits the picture, and fear is sometimes seen just prior to the fit.
Belladonna
Another remedy where suddenness is a feature, together with the violence of the convulsions. There is great sensitivity during the fit, and the slightest external stimulus will keep it going. The attack usually involves a single fit rather than a cluster. As it is the acute of Calc carb, it is often of use where that is the indicated constitutional remedy.
Bufo
This has the reputation of the keynote of fits occurring during sleep. In actual fact, the link is to night and sleep combined. The other feature is worse in a warm room. There is often a howl at the start of the fit.
Cicuta virosa
A distinctive feature here is that during the spasms, the head is thrown back and to the side, so that the muzzle rests on the shoulder blade facing towards the tail.
Cocculus
A very useful remedy, its connection with vertigo gives it its place in this context.
Hyoscyamus
Related to Belladonna and Stramonium, this is also an excellent “local” remedy. Its picture is characterized by excessive movements of the face, both prior to a fit and at other times.
Kali brom
As Potassium bromide this is used as a conventional anti-convulsant and it is also employed as a homeopathic remedy. The timing of the fits is often linked to estrus, and there is marked excitement before they start.
Silica, having both convulsions and “ailments from vaccination” in its picture, is extremely useful when seizures are vaccine induced.
NOTE: Don’t try giving these remedies to your dog – discuss these remedy choices with your homeopathic vet before treating your dog. If you don’t have a homeopathic vet, you can find a great homeopathic vet here who is close to you or is willing to guide you with phone consults.
Seizures and epilepsy are typically the result of chronic, long standing disease and this makes the choice of remedy difficult. Consult with your homeopathic vet to find the proper constitutional remedy for your dog, one that matches your dog’s unique personality, emotions and physical symptoms.
Unlike conventional medicines, homeopathy won’t contribute to your dog’s toxin buildup, and this gives him the very best chance of saying goodbye to seizures forever.

Memorial

Bridey Murphy

Hi:
Thought you’d like to know: Our beloved black standard Bridey Murphy
was put to rest June 20th at the tender age of 16.
It seems like only yesterday we brought her home from your place
to keep Emma company. Now, both are gone and we are left with
that scamp, Teddy, who, we’re sure, will miss her.
Bridie was doing OK but in recent months had probably developed
kidney problems and in the past couple of weeks was unable to
stand, her rear end giving out constantly. Our vet concurred with
our decision.
Here’s a photo taken this past winter!


Butch


Alan, Nancy and Melissa Murray.
Our precious Butch born Dec. 2 /94. ( not sure of date) sure of month and year. I picked him up on Jan.21/1995
Butch died on July 24 2007 of natural causes. He would have been 13 in Dec/07

 

Housebreaking A Dog: Tips and Tricks To Help You Succeed


Think you’re not up to the task of housebreaking a dog? Don’t be so quick to throw in a towel. Housebreaking a dog is not as difficult as you believe it to be.
The trick is to take advantage of your pet’s natural toilet habits that include:
– going at the same where other dogs do.
– going during certain times of the day.
– refusing to go in their sleeping area.
Dogs are creatures of habit. Keep this in mind when you’re giving your dog toilet training. Some dogs learn quickly — within a matter of days, in fact — while other dogs take longer, perhaps weeks or even months. If you do not have a pup yet and are only thinking of getting one, train yours the moment you bring it home. The sooner you start potty training a puppy, the easier the process will be.
Generally, puppies relieve themselves after they eat, after they play, and after or just before they go to sleep. Here are a few more tips to help make housebreaking a dog a breeze!
1. Set a Schedule – Take your puppy outside at the same time every morning. Feed your dog and then bring him outdoors right after his meal at the same time, too. Be sure to bring your pet to the same area outdoors, too. Sticking to a schedule can be a pain in the beginning, but when you’re housebreaking a puppy, setting a routine is important. Your pet learns through repetition.
2. Associate the Action With a Command – Choose a word or a phrase that describes the action to your pup. It could be “Do your thing” or “Outside”—it doesn’t really matter what word you choose. What matters is that you use this word consistently so that your dog learns to see it as command.
3. Watch for Signs – Did your dog just spend the last few minutes circling, sniffing, and pacing? When you’re house training a dog, you have to be observant. These signs are indicators that it’s time for your pup to go. Once you notice these signs, take your dog outside immediately. If you catch your dog in the middle of pooping, firmly say “no” and then take him outdoors to finish. If he does so, be sure to praise him.
4. Crate Your Dog When You Are Away – If you have to be out for a short time, put your dog in a kennel or crate. Your pet’s first instinct is not to soil the area he considers his own, and this instinct will greatly help you in housebreaking a dog. A word of advice to the wise, however: do not keep your puppy crated for more than 4 hours. This period puts too much strain on the bladder and your pet may have to relieve himself out of necessity.
If you have to leave for work, return at midday so you can let your puppy go outside. If this arrangement is not possible for you, ask a family member, friend, or neighbor to do it for you.
Finally, here are a few rules to keep in mind:
1. Praise your pooch when it’s able to potty successfully.
2. Stick to a solid routine.
3. Never punish your dog for a pooping accident unless you catch him in the act.
Housebreaking a dog can take time, but don’t give up. Persist and eventually, you will see results. Remember that instinctively, your pup wants to please you; you just have to show him how.

Plants That Are Poisonous to Dogs


Poisonous plants listed below are some common garden and household varieties that can be poisonous to your dog. Your pet may have a sensitivity or allergy to a plant that is not on the list resulting in toxicity. Always contact your veterinarian immediately if you think your pet may have ingested a poisonous plant.
Special Notice: Several recent reports of dogs having kidney failure after ingesting large amount of grapes or raisins has the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center investigating to determine the causative agents or disease processes.
Shrubs
Plant Name—Possible Symptoms Azalea – Weakness, Upset Stomach, Drooling, Coma, Heart Failure, Depression
Boxwood – Upset Stomach, Heart Failure, Excitability or Lethargy
Holly(Berries) – Upset Stomach, Tremors, Seizures, Loss of Balance
Hydrangea – Seizures, Dizziness, Rapid Breathing
Oleander – Upset Stomach, Heart Failure, Excitability or Lethargy
Flowers
Plant Name——Possible Symptoms
Amaryllis – Upset Stomach, Hyperactivity Lethargy Coma, Shock Death
Autumn Crocus – Oral Irritation, Upset Stomach, Kidney Failure, Hyperactivity Lethargy Coma, Shock Death
Buttercup – Upset Stomach
Calla Lilly – Upset Stomach, Oral Irritation, Asphyxiation, Tremors, Seizures, Loss of Balance, Death
Christmas Rose Upset Stomach, Diarrhea, Seizures, Disorientation
Chrysanthemum – Skin Irritation Daffodil (bulb)- Upset Stomach, Seizures, Weakness, Tremors, Excitement Lethargy Coma, Death
Easter Lily – Kidney Failure, Upset Stomach, Weakness
Foxglove – Upset Stomach, Tremors, Seizures, Loss of Balance, Lethargy, Collapse, Heart Failure, Death
Hyacinth (bulb) -Varied Toxic Effects
Iris (root)- Upset Stomach
Jessamine – Labored Breathing, Seizures, Weakness, Respiratory Failure
Jonquil (Narcissus)- Upset Stomach, Hyperactivity Depression Coma, Seizures, Tremors, Weakness, Irregular Heartbeat, Death
Morning Glory – Upset Stomach, Hallucinations
Narcissus – Upset Stomach, Hyperactivity Depression Coma, Seizures, Tremors, Weakness, Irregular Heartbeat, Death
Peony – Upset Stomach, Tremors, Seizures, Staggering, Loss of Balance, Depression, Collapse, Heart Failure, Death
Periwinkle – Hallucinogen
Poinsettia – Upset Stomach, Oral Irritation
Primrose – Upset Stomach
Tulip (bulb) – Varied Toxic Effects
Vines/Ground Cover
Plant Name——Possible Symptoms
Devil’s Ivy (Philodendron) – Upset Stomach, Mouth Irritation, Tremors, Seizures, Loss of Balance, asphyxiation, death
English Ivy – Upset Stomach, Hyperactivity, Labored Breathing, Drooling, Fever, Increased Thirst, Dilated Pupils, Weakness, Staggering
Jasmine Weakness, Seizures, Respiratory Failure
Vine – Upset Stomach, Lethargy, Drooling, Heart Failure, Dilated Pupils
Matrimony Vine Varied Toxic Effects
Virginia Creeper – Varied Toxic Effects
Ornamentals and Houseplants
Plant Name——Possible Symptoms
Asparagus Fern – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Cramps, tremors, heart, respiratory, kidney problems
Caladium – Upset Stomach, Oral Irritation, Asphyxiation, Tremors, Seizures, Loss of Balance, Death
Elephant’s Ear (Colocasia)- Upset Stomach, Oral Irritation, Asphyxiation, Tremors, Seizures, Balance, Death
Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia)- Upset Stomach, Oral Irritation, Asphyxiation, Tremors, Seizures, Loss of Balance, Death
Philodendron (Saddle Leaf, Split Leaf) – Swollen Mouth, Painful Tongue, Sore LipsPoinsettia Upset Stomach, Oral Irritation
Pot Mum – DermatitisSpider Mum Dermatitis
Umbrella Plant – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Cramps, Tremors, heart, respiratory, kidney problems
Trees
Plant Name——Possible Symptoms
Apple (leaves and stem) – Rapid breathing, shock, dilated pupils, gum inflammationAmerican Yew Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Diarrhea
Cuban Laurel (Ficus) – Upset StomachFiddle-Leaf Fig (Ficus lyrata) Upset Stomach, Skin Irritation
Oak (acorns) – Varied Toxic Effects
English Yew – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Diarrhea
Western Yew – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Diarrhea
Apricot – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Diarrhea
Almond – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Diarrhea
Peach – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Diarrhea
Cherry (leaves and stem) – Shock, Gum Inflammation, Dilated Pupils, Rapid Breathing
Wild Cherry – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Diarrhea
Japanese Plum – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Diarrhea
Balsam Pear – Vomiting, Abdominal Pain, Diarrhea
Fruits/Vegetables
Plant Name——Possible Symptoms
Apple Seeds – Varied Toxic Effects
Apricot Seeds – Varied Toxic Effects
Avocado Seeds – Diarrhea, Vomiting, Labored Breathing, Death
Cornstalk – Upset Stomach, Labored Breathing, Drooling
Eggplant(all parts except fruit) – Upset Stomach, Heart Failure, Drooling, Lethargy
Onion -Upset Stomach, Anemia
Peach Seeds – Varied Toxic Effects
Other
Plant Name – Symptoms
Aloe Vera – Diarrhea
Mistletoe – Varied Toxic Effects
Mushrooms – Varied Toxic Effects

What Does COI Mean?


COI stands for Coefficient Of Inbreeding and is the calculation used to determine the level of inbreeding on an idividual dog or puppy.
The higher the number for COI the closer the dog or puppy was inbred. 
A very low COI reflects that that dog or puppy was “outcross” bred, meaning the parents of the dog or puppy had little or no common ancestors. A low COI breeding should really appeal to those individuals leaning towards obtaining a designer breeds (mutts) as basically a COI of less than 10% would be the equivalent of a mutt breeding, but with the beauty, health and characteristics of a purebred and a breeder’s health guarantee and support.
I get asked all the time how we achieve reds that hold their colour.
In order to achieve dark red colour a breeder has to start with the dark red colour.
You can’t take two light coloured dogs and achieve dark red colour that is going to hold.
You can’t take a light coloured Poodle and breed it to a dark red Poodle and achieve dark red pups that will hold colour 
UNLESS it is a linebreeding on dark red ancestor which will usually be a Majestic dog or VERY old Palmares Lines.
Which will mean a COI of 6% or greater on the litter. 
Line breeding on a dark red Poodle ancestor will “bring forth” that dark red gene. 
Because very few breeders are concentrating on “Colour Breeding”, finding “real” dark reds that hold their colour 
and have passed all OFA testing, is near impossible in 2010 and will continue to be impossible
Until more breeders stop using fading reds, apricot and creams in their red programs.
Buyers will find that the only “real” dark reds they can find as of 2010 will have a 10-generation COI of 6% and up. 
Once red breeders start concentrating on “Colour” (assuming OFA’s are completed of course) THEN
we can acheive colour from outcross breedings like breeders are doing with the more common colours.
Red breeders need to concentrate on health testing of course…but also on colour breeding.
Our BEST breedings of producing that rich Dark Irish Setter Reds have been 10-generation COI = 7.18% 
My BEST Dark Brown breeding with exceptionally sweet temperaments in 1980’s was a 10-generation COI = 15.27% (now in 2010 it is 1.11% or less)
You can see these reds and browns on our web page as pups as adults that have held their colour 
and are exceptionally healthy, completing all OFA health testing and DNA testing available.
COI is a great “tool” to assist breeders, but breeders CAN’T ignore genetics and expect to get results.
High COI percentages of over 20% increase the probability that genetic defects will be carried from common ancestors on both sides of the pedigree and will match up to cause the actual genetic disease or defect in the animal.
Many other problems of a high COI also affect dogs, such as Autoimmune disease and inbreeding depression symptoms, which result in reproductive and longevity issues.
A COI of 12.5% is equivalent to a half brother to half sister mating or a grandparent to grandchild mating. This breeding is the most common practice for breeders wishing to achieve consistency in type or to “cement” certain traits. As a result the litter should be fairly uniform in type & temperament which is the goal for anyone breeding for show. 
This breeding is usually referred to as a “line-breeding” and is one of the 
BEST breedings to achieve PERFECTION.
A COI of 25% is equivalent to a parent-child or brother to sister mating. This type of breeding is really not recommended by anyone. It is a very “tight” breeding and is usually referred to as “inbreeding”. A breeder could either get really amazing healthy great looking pups as a result, with pups that will have great genotype (ability to reproduce its self) and great phenotype (the pup will visually appear close to ideal for its breed) for the desired breed type, OR the opposite and look poorly and be very skiddish, hyper, aggressive, unhealthy pups as a result. So this breeding will either produce the best or the worst traits of their parents.
Ideally, the COI of a litter should not exceed the average COI of the two parents. It is highly recommended to avoid a COI in excess of 20%.
Some genetically inherited diseases and faults in Purebred and Mutts alike, are:

  • Hip and elbow dysplasia
  • Patella Luxation
  • Epilepsy
  • Eye disease such as: cataracts, Collie Eye Anomaly (CEA) and 
 Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) 
Cancer 
Allergies and skin problems
  • Retained testicles
  • Autoimmune diseases
  • Bad bites and missing teeth
  • Unacceptable colors
  • Temperament problems such as shyness and aggressiveness

Inbreeding depression symptoms are seen as the loss of viability or function resulting from excess inbreeding. Sometimes these syptoms are very subtle and gradual and are often blamed on diet, pollution and other environmental factors. While these factors may also contribute, it is the dogs genes that make it more susceptible.
The most frequently seen inbreeding depression signs are:

  • Chronic poor health/poor keepers
  • Higher incidence of disease in a line (or breed) of one or more diseases
 than is seen in the breed or canines as a whole
  • Higher incidence of immune system diseases
  • Unusually small litter size
  • Difficulty in getting and keeping bitches pregnant
  • Bitches that abandon a litter or are poor mothers
  • Bitches that kill or damage puppies intentionally or by lack of care 
Studs that are indifferent to a bitch in standing heat 
Studs that cannot breed without help 
Low sperm count
  • Earlier average age of death in a line or in the general breed population

All of these factors make it incredibly important that you do the COI calculation on any planned litter. Keeping the breed healthy is easier than cleaning it up after the fact. COI calculation can give the breeder an indication of how inbred a dog or litter will be. Knowing this percentage will enable you to make the best choices towards reducing inbreeding in your dogs.
Today the emphasis should be put on health, temperament and working ability if purebred dogs are going to survive into the next hundred years. Active concern for health should be your number one breeding goal, because without health, you have no dog.

DNA Test for Coat Color


Testing for coat color and a D-locus test for color dilution have recently become available and our poodles’ tests all show the DD allele. The coat color test allows breeders to fairly accurately predict the colors of puppies that will be produced with each breeding. As for the D-locus test for fading, it was originally held that if both parents carried the DD allele their pups would not fade. Unfortunately, even in those with DD alleles, it appears that there are other genes at work particularly in red or apricot poodles that causes most to fade. Until these elusive genes are identified, the D-locus test in red poodles is unable to predict whether or not your puppy’s coat will fade. Therefore, when a breeder states that his/her red poodles are non-fading, this information should be viewed as opinion rather than fact!

Puppy Check


You may think the biggest problem you’ll have with a new puppy is being too overwhelmed with all that cuteness to appropriately correct bad behavior. In a way, yes, that is your biggest challenge. You have to get past all the fluffy, floppy, big-eyed, clumsy cuteness to create and enforce rules and training that create a happy, balanced dog once all that puppy cuteness fades away.Once puppy hits the “teenage” stage around 9-12 months, trouble begins if the owners didn’t really buy into how much attention, exercise, training and patience a puppy would require – especially as that ball of fluff quickly grows into a dog with the size and intelligence and creativity of a Standard Poodle! It’s up to you to set the correct foundation from the time puppy comes home with you so the transition from puppyhood to fabulous adult companion will go as smoothly as possible. Below are the areas requiring particular attention and strategies. The intent is to give you a basic understanding of what you need to consider – and plan for in advance – in order to raise a healthy, happy puppy and maintain your sanity (at least most of the time) in the process:
Socialization and Basic Training
Basic commands and leash training can (and should) begin the moment you bring your puppy home. Nipping, barking, basics for sit, stay, lie down and recall, reigning in the prey drive, getting enough exercise, learning to interact appropriately with other dogs including reading and responding to social cues and not getting into fights or being reactive … you get the idea. There’s a long, long list of things that puppy owners need to tackle to help puppy develop into a great companion. That’s why one of the first and most important things to do, once vaccinations are accomplished, is to sign up for a puppy socialization class. Not only will your puppy have a chance to interact with other young dogs in a supervised setting — making sure that no one gets bullied and shy dogs can build up their confidence — but also you as the owner will learn a lot about reading dog body language so you can understand and predict what’s going on in the play group. You’ll be able to “hear” what your puppy is telling you all by how he moves around. You’ll also learn what play cues look like versus bullying behavior, and how to help guide your puppy through social situations. Ultimately, a puppy socialization class sets up both of you for success when you’re out in public. And hen you take the role of responsible dog owner to heart, by the end of puppy socialization classes you’ll be ready and excited to move into basic obedience classes. It’s in these classes that you’ll learn all sorts of things like using positive reinforcement to get your dog to perform basic commands like sit, stay, and come. These, along with commands like leave it, drop it, stand and stay, lie down can be life saving. If you want your dog to be a great companion, then be prepared to spend at least as much time training yourself as you will spend on socializing and training your puppy.
Vaccinations, Boosters, Vet Bills
Puppies need a lot of care in their first months of life, so plan on a few trips to the vet.Puppies leave our home after their first puppy shot and worming. They will require two more puppy shots followed by a rabies vaccination [following Dr. Jean Dodds’ protocol] several weeks after puppy shot #3. The basic immunizations cover diseases like distemper, parvovirus and rabies, but there are a lot of other issues that puppies can have, including worms, hernias (which sometimes need surgery to fix), retained baby teeth, and other issues. In short, if you’re taking on a puppy, be prepared to give the time and money it takes to make frequent trips to the vet during the puppy’s first several months of life. It’s a great idea to also get puppy insurance. You pay a small monthly fee so that if anything big happens — like the puppy breaks a leg, swallows something, or (heaven forbid) gets attacked at the dog park — you don’t get hit with the giant vet bill. There are several pet insurance companies to choose from and with a little research or a recommendation from your vet, you can sign up and be covered for those just-in-case moments.

Housebreaking and Crate Training

Housebreaking and crate training are two of the most important things you can teach your dog, and they both take patience. Everyone wants a dog who is housebroken, so potty training is a top priority. Depending on the dog, housebreaking can be relatively easy, or it may take months of diligent effort, patience, and plenty of carpet spot remover. Puppies seem to regress with each growth spurt, adding an additional challenge. Figuring out a strategy that works for your dog, having the time and energy to take frequent breaks, and enforcing the rules will all be part of successfully housebreaking your puppy. Along with housebreaking comes crate training. Having a quiet place for a dog to go when the household is busy and it’s not safe to have a puppy underfoot, or when the puppy just needs a break, or whenever people will be gone is vital to keeping everyone’s sanity — the puppy’s included! Crate training is all about providing a relaxing, secure, comforting place for a dog to be. It keeps the pup out of trouble, helps ease or even cure separation anxiety, and gives humans space when they need it. But crate training is tough work. A long-term strategy and consistency are both musts.

Exercise

Ensuring your puppy gets lots of exercise is imperative, and a great way to avoid destructive behavior. A good puppy is a tired puppy! Gnawing, digging, shredding, scratching … puppies create havoc everywhere they go with their boundless energy, curiosity, and their desire to test the durability and edibility of practically everything in their environment. One of the biggest frustrations new puppy owners should be ready for is not knowing what clothing, furniture, plants and other household items are going to last through the first months or year of having a new puppy. This is perhaps where your patience will be tested the most. There are ways to avoid the majority of destruction, and this includes giving your puppy PLENTY of exercise and a structured, consistent environment for training. Having hardly any energy left to wreak havoc as well as clearly knowing what the household rules are (including, perhaps, only being allowed in certain rooms or having certain toys to play with) gives puppy little need or desire to eat a slipper or tear into the laundry basket. It is a proven fact that exercising puppy’s mind is often more physically tiring than a walk or romp. When puppy exhibits boundless energy, work with him on sits, downs, whatever skills you’ve taught him. Yet another reason to get him enrolled in obedience classes!

Separation Anxiety and Developmental Fear Phases

Puppies go through periods when they’re more fearful than usual, often when they have experienced a growth spurt, and some puppies are more affected than others. Recognizing and helping them through these times is critical. Having a dog who is comfortable being alone and isn’t dependent on you is a great thing. You may like the idea of being needed, and it may feel impossible to ignore the whimpers and cries of a puppy learning to be alone, but your dog is more mentally stable when he knows how to be alone for a few hours at a time and doesn’t panic when you leave the house or even go into another room. Putting in the work to know what separation anxiety is, recognizing the degree to which your puppy has it (most dogs have it to some degree), and figuring out how to help him get over it will be one of the biggest gifts you can give your dog (and you) — and it will last their entire life. Another thing to be prepared for is the developmental fears your puppy will experience as he grows up. These are normal stages in a puppy’s life that usually happen at around 8-11 weeks and again around 6-14 months. These are periods where your dog is seeing the world in a new way and figuring out what is and isn’t dangerous. It is also a time when life-long phobias or triggers can be created. It’s important to know how to recognize and respond to the behaviors your dog has during these periods to keep him calm and balanced (but not coddled, either). Read everything you can find on the critical developmental stages of your puppy’s life so you can be ready for how to respond and to know what social situations are and aren’t helpful for your dog during these times.

Differences in Training Styles

Everyone in the family needs to know what the rules are and agree to enforce them in order to have a happy home and a happy puppy. Getting the whole family on the same page with training is perhaps the biggest challenge your household will face. Every member of the household needs to “be on the same page” and follow the same rules and routines with a puppy. The only way dogs really learn rules is through consistency. It is easy for a puppy to never quite get the training down when he is treated differently by each family member. For example, if the rule is no feeding from the table, or no getting up on furniture, everyone has to abide by it. The hard part is keeping up the rules when your new puppy is just so darn cute and really wants a nibble from the dinner plate, or really wants to come sit on someone’s lap. Big problems start small, and that includes allowing a little leeway here and there on rules as the puppy is learning the ropes. Once you give in – just once – to something puppy wants (but heretofore was against house rules), to puppy this becomes The Way Things Are. It is also a challenge to get everyone on board with consistent ways of training. Having the same words or signals for commands helps a puppy to understand what is being asked of him, yet making sure everyone in the household provides those same words or signals when asking for something is a bigger challenge than you might expect. When you know what you’re in for, when you are able and willing to accept the challenges, and when you plan in advance before puppy comes home, you and your puppy will both have a much easier, most joyful time together!

The First 48 Hours


Finally when it is time to bring your new puppy home, here are a few preparations that you need to go through to get ready for that new baby.
Create a safe, friendly environment. Here is a checklist:
1 – Make sure that all poisonous items are stored out of puppies reach.
2 – Remove any poisonous plants.
3 – Look at your home from your new puppies point of view and remove hazardous items.
There are things that your new puppy will need so I would suggest purchasing them in advance if possible: 
1 – Food and Water dishes, sometimes well water can give them runs since our water is fluoride free clean good water even spring is best. I personally have an electric water dish out side all year round.
2 – A collar , I personally like the martin-gale collars, and a leash and even an extended leash can be a great training leash.
3 – A pin brush for fluffing, called a slicker and a nice comb. Brushes are great for surface brushing but you really need a comb for getting the mats out and getting down to the skin.
4 – Safe and appropriate toys. Nothing from China!! Usually if a toy and fit comfortable in a puppies mouth it is too small and the puppy may choke on it.
5 – A bed or crate for sleeping in.
6 – A baby gate to keep puppy from going where you don’t want him to go. Don’t worry about them falling down the stairs they will go up and down in no time!
7 – News paper Your puppy has been trained on this from 5 weeks of age. They make potty training much easier on your puppy.
8 – I buy hanging bells that fit on your door handle from pet smart they quickly can be taught to ring THE BELLS when wanting out side.
Puppies have different nutritional needs than an adult dog. By feeding a complete and balanced nutritional food you can help maintain healthy teeth, bones, weight, and help keep your dog healthy for a long time to come.
Consistency is the key. Feed you puppy the same food at the same time every day. Puppies should be fed 3-4 times a day. I don’t think it’s possible to over feed a poodle! They are grazers and I’ve never seen a fat poodle unless she is expecting puppies! Too much weight can cause liver and heart problems as well as joint and back problems.
Don’t be upset if your puppies appetite changes. Occasional loss of appetite or digestive upset is normal for growing puppies. Continue your feeding routine. However, should the upset become severe or last for more than a day contact me or your vet. Pure pumpkin or sweet potato can firm up stools.
Making the transition easy:
1 – Decide on a name and use it all the time. REMEMBER NEVER CALL A PUPPY BY HIS OR HER NAME WHEN CORRECTING ONLY FOR THE PUPPY TO COME!
2 – Keep your puppy with you at all times. this will keep him out of trouble.
3 – Let sleeping puppies lie. They need their rest as much as you do!
4 – Teach young children the proper way to hold and care for the puppy.
5 – Don’t leave your puppy unattended with young children or other pets until everyone has adjusted well.
House training:
1 – Establish a routine and STICK WITH IT!!!!! Take your puppy out after eating and sleeping.
2 – Until the puppy is completely trained keep and eye on him!
3 – Crate-training is essential!
4 – Designate a certain potty area and stick with it!
5 – Correct the puppies mistakes only when you catch him in the act. otherwise the puppy will not understand why you are angry with him/HER.
PUPPY PROOFING YOUR HOME!
Puppies are like babies, they are always curious, and they are teething. Since puppies have a low vantage point and can see things that you can’t, it is important to get down on their level when puppy proofing your home.
Here are some suggestions:
1 – Confine puppy in a safe area that they can’t escape from.
2 – Don’t leave your puppy unsupervised.
3 – Keep your puppy off high decks and balconies where he may fall.
4 – Store cleaning supplies, soaps, chemicals, poisons, and antifreeze securely out of reach.
5  – Remove poisonous houseplants. (See list of poisonous house plants below)
6 – Keep the toilet lid down.
7 – Remove or cover any electrical cords or outlets.
8 – Keep medications out of reach.
9 – Make sure you know where your puppy is before closing any doors or leaving the house.
10 – Keep sewing supplies, hardware, and coins out of reach.
11 – Keep plastic six-pack beverage holders and plastic bags, elastics out of reach.
12 – Always have important phone numbers like your vet handy and mine on hand!
***Joellen Curtis 519-452-7021 cell 519-615-5691***